Don't want to get all dramatic & paranoid, but something has definitely changed in this town just in the last year.
I've been passing through Matehuala for nearly 2 decades now, but this rustic country outpost never changes much. Not until now & just since I was here just a year ago.
It looks like someone spent a lot of money giving all the public spaces a major rennovation. There are a lot more police here & not your average police either. These guys are heavily armed with full body armor & black combat helmets. They cruise around in police trucks that have huge machine guns mounted on the roofs & they have a new building that looks expensive & modern.
When I was walking into town earlier from the bus station I saw these dudes with their heads shaved prison-style but they were driving big black & shiny SUVs. Sorta creeped me out a little.
There's never really been much graffiti in this town, but now it looks like every other building has gang tags.
I just got my hair cut by the old fellow I like to visit every time I pass through. I mentioned the changes & new observations. He said, with a very serious look, that there is BIG money here & that I should watch my back & be very careful. I asked him about all the new wealth & hardcore police & he said it's all narcotraficante & cartels all over the area. I asked if it was safer out in the desert pueblos. He said it's even more dangerous out there where I'm going because all the police are all in town.
He might be exaggerating or watching too much TV, but I think I'll keep my head down & a low profile until I get more info. Wouldn't want to be mistaken for a journalist or anything. Yikes! I'm sitting here with a camera tapping away all this writing to post. That's likely not wise. Think I'll wrap it up & keep movin' while I'm ahead. ;)
Most likely just too much TV & that I was sitting in a plaza near a new club watching women who looked like prostitutes walk by with young folks dressed in hard core gang-style clothing on a Saturday night. Maybe it's just the style & Matehuala has enjoyed some recent economic prosperity, but something seems suspicious & doesn't quite fit. Will get more info in the desert & update in a few days when I get access again.
Time to head out to the desert & get back to work on my story:
http://storify.com/skiphunt/chupacabra-1
Wish me suerte! (luck)
UPDATE
UPDATE: Skip Hunt Ok, well... It doesn't appear to be my imagination. Just went for a walk to kill time & get a few more images. A new car with 4 young guys were at the stop sign talking to another guy on a motorcycle. I made sure the driver saw me before I crossed. Just as I crossed he hit the gas looking right at me. I barely got out of the way in time. He only stopped after I slammed my hand down on his hood yelling WTF?! at him. He & his friends just looked at me & laughed. I got his tag number but I don't really trust the police either so I decided to keep moving.
A local woman was outside her home & saw the whole thing. She asked if I was OK. I told her I was fine but worried about the changes I've seen in what used to be a very tranquilo town. She confirmed the drastic changes since last year & said its all happened just in the last 6 months. I asked her if it was safer in the desert towns & her eyes lit up and she said, "No! It's even worse out there because that's where the narcotraficantes & cartels are!" She added that it's pretty segura & tranquilo (safe & peaceful) in Real de Catorce.
Dang it! I can't turn tail now! I came all this way and am hyper-focused to get stuff related to Chupacabra done while in the desert solitude. I have a friend who lives out there who I've known for over 15 years. I'm going out there & see what the real scoop is. It's likely concentrated in this other town called Vanegas about 20k away. Might be just fine in Wadley where I'm going. If not, I'll make it quick & take a jeep up to Real de Catorce where it appears to be safer. I've also noticed people don't seem to be as friendly to me as they've been in the past. Not sure if that's a result of American anti-immigration sentiment, or a new distrust of outsiders. Likely both I suppose. I had to Google SUR 13. I think that's the same as MS 13? Dios Mio! I sure hope not. Have heard that gang is the worst of the worst. So sad that I have to feel a bit afraid in this place that has been nearly a sacred destination for me going on 20 years now. :(